At Chloé, romance meets the rain

Chemena Kamali called her Chloé Spring/Summer 2027 collection “Obsession”. It began with white, fringed lace and moved toward practical shapes associated with wet weather. The sequence matters more than either half on its own.

Softness with a shell

Look 1 exposes the body through lace and fringe, with almost no weight at the shoulder. By look 32, a shiny red cape and broad hat cover nearly everything. A pale ruffled hem still peeks out below the slicker. The change in scale is dramatic, but Kamali keeps the earlier delicacy in view.

The yellow embroidered look later in the show has its own volume: a short top, gathered skirt and scalloped layers. It is light in fabric and colour, yet hardly slight. Brown boots interrupt the sweetness, just as the rainwear had interrupted the opening white.

The strongest part of this collection is the friction between those pieces. Chloé’s romantic vocabulary is familiar; the weatherproof shapes give it something new to push against.