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Balenciaga finds space in familiar clothes

Pierpaolo Piccioli shifts the proportions of a white shirt and a T-shirt, then gives a pale-pink dress the scale of couture without losing sight of denim.

Balenciaga Spring 2027 look 35: white T-shirt with a projecting waist over jeans
Umberto Fratini / Gorunway.com, via Vogue Runway.

Pierpaolo Piccioli has described couture as a way of thinking that can shape everyday clothes at Balenciaga. His Spring/Summer 2027 show tests that idea on garments most people can name at a glance: a shirt, a T-shirt, jeans.

Where the fabric leaves the body

In the opening look, the white shirt pulls away at the waist while its collar and button front remain conventional. Later, a plain white T-shirt develops a broad, almost horizontal sweep above the jeans. The intervention is precise. Neither outfit needs an elaborate surface to announce it.

Look 58 takes more space. A pale-pink dress spreads to either side, but denim remains visible through its opening. That familiar layer grounds the grander gesture and makes the dress feel like something worn with another piece, rather than a display object on its own.

Aude Franjou’s coral installation gave the runway a vivid setting. In these looks, though, Piccioli’s argument is carried by the clothes: recognisable pieces made strange through cut and scale.

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